Chickens usually eat a mixed diet of commercial feed, kitchen scraps, foraged insects, and greens — and what do chickens usually eat shifts slightly depending on their age, breed, and life stage. A healthy laying hen consumes roughly a quarter pound (about 115 grams) of feed per day, with layer feed making up the core of her diet at 16-18% protein. Bantam breeds eat less, around 2 ounces daily, while large fowl like Brahmas or Jersey Giants can push closer to a third of a pound. Nutrition requirements also change dramatically during molt — when a hen drops her feathers each autumn, her protein needs spike and egg production typically stops for 6-12 weeks. This article covers the full chicken diet breakdown, when molt usually happens and how to feed through it, the best types of commercial feed, and what treats and supplements are worth adding to your flock’s routine.
When Do Chickens Usually Molt
Chickens usually molt once a year, most often in late summer through autumn — typically September to November in the US and UK. The trigger is the shortening daylight hours, not temperature, which is why supplemental coop lighting (14-16 hours per day) can delay or suppress molt in production flocks.
Most hens experience their first molt at around 15-18 months old, after completing their first full laying cycle. The molt itself takes 6-12 weeks from start to finish, though fast molters (who drop all their feathers at once and regrow quickly) are genetically preferable for commercial reasons. Some breeds, like Australorps and Rhode Island Reds, tend to be faster molters. Silkies and Polish hens can take longer.
During molt, egg production drops to near zero. The bird’s body redirects protein toward feather regrowth — feathers are roughly 85% protein (keratin), so the nutritional demand is significant. Signs that molt has started:
- Heavy feather loss around the neck and head first
- Bare patches spreading to the back, breast, and wings
- Pin feathers (new quills) visible along the spine
- Reduced laying or complete stop
Do not pick up molting birds unnecessarily. New pin feathers contain blood vessels and are sensitive — handling them causes pain.
Chicken Diet: What to Feed at Each Life Stage
A balanced chicken diet changes with age. Feeding the wrong ration is one of the most common beginner mistakes, and it has measurable consequences: too little calcium causes thin-shelled eggs, too much calcium damages kidneys in young birds.
| Life Stage | Age | Feed Type | Protein % |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chicks | 0-8 weeks | Chick starter | 20-22% |
| Growers | 8-18 weeks | Grower/developer | 16-18% |
| Laying hens | 18+ weeks | Layer feed | 16-18% |
| Molting hens | During molt | High-protein layer or supplement | 18-22%+ |
A healthy chicken diet also includes:
- Grit — insoluble granite grit helps the gizzard grind feed. Essential if birds don’t have access to natural ground.
- Oyster shell — offered free-choice to laying hens for calcium. Do not mix it into feed; let hens self-regulate.
- Fresh greens — kale, dandelion, spinach, and grass clippings are all well received.
- Insects and worms — a natural protein source that backyard hens will seek out while ranging.
The chicken diet should never include avocado (toxic), dried beans (contains phytohaemagglutinin), chocolate, or onion in large quantities. Table scraps are fine in moderation — they should make up no more than 10% of daily intake to avoid diluting the nutritional balance of the main feed.
Chicken Feed: Types, Costs, and Molt Boosters
Commercial chicken feed comes in several forms, and knowing which to use prevents both nutrient gaps and wasted money.
Feed forms:
- Pellets — compressed cylinders, least waste, best for adult hens. Most 50 lb bags run $18-$28 depending on brand and region.
- Crumbles — broken-down pellets, easier for younger birds and bantams.
- Mash — finely ground feed, mixes well with water for sick or recovering birds.
For molt specifically, switching to a higher-protein chicken feed is the single most effective intervention. Several brands sell “feather fixer” rations at 18-22% protein. Alternatively, you can supplement standard layer feed with:
- Black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS) — high in methionine, an amino acid critical for feather development. A tablespoon per bird per day is a reasonable amount.
- Dried mealworms — around 50-55% protein, excellent molt booster. Offer as a treat rather than a meal replacement.
- Dried fish meal — some keepers add a small amount to the flock’s mash during molt to push protein content up.
Avoid “scratch” (cracked corn and grain mix) as a main chicken feed. It’s low protein — around 8-9% — and functions as a treat or cold-weather warming snack only. Overfeeding scratch leads to obese hens with poor laying records and prolonged molts.
Hydration and Foraging: The Parts Most Articles Skip
Feed is only part of the picture. Water is actually the nutrient backyard keepers most often underestimate. A laying hen drinks about a pint of water per day in mild weather — up to twice that in summer heat above 85°F (29°C). Dehydration suppresses laying faster than any feed deficiency.
Water quality matters too. Stale, algae-coated waterers spread disease. Wash drinkers every 2-3 days, and add a splash of apple cider vinegar (1 tablespoon per gallon) to discourage algae growth and mildly support gut flora.
Foraging supplements all of the above naturally. Free-ranging hens self-select insects, seeds, and plant material — studies on pasture-raised poultry show meaningfully higher omega-3 fatty acid content in eggs compared to confined birds. Even a small secure run gives hens access to soil bacteria and plant diversity that pure commercial feed can’t replicate.
Conclusion
Understanding what do chickens usually eat is the foundation of a healthy backyard flock — layer feed at 16-18% protein forms the core, supplemented with grit, oyster shell, fresh greens, and occasional protein treats. When molt arrives each autumn, bump protein, pull back calcium-heavy feeds slightly, and let the bird rest. What do chickens usually eat during molt looks slightly different than the rest of the year, but the core principle stays the same: meet the bird’s current biological demand. For more depth, look into how to set up a proper laying hen feeding schedule year-round, or read about the best chicken breeds for consistent laying through the winter months.
Helpful answers
Frequently Asked Questions
Can chickens eat table scraps?
Yes, but scraps should make up no more than 10% of daily intake. Good options include cooked rice, vegetable trimmings, plain pasta, and fruit. Avoid avocado, onion, chocolate, and dried beans — these are toxic or harmful in chicken quantities. Bread is safe in small amounts but nutritionally empty.
Do chickens need a rooster to lay eggs?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster present. A rooster is only needed if you want fertile eggs for hatching. A flock of all hens will lay normally throughout their productive years, typically peaking in years one and two.
How long does molt usually last?
Most hens complete molt in 6-12 weeks. Fast molters drop feathers quickly and regrow them in 8 weeks or less; slow molters spread the process over 3-4 months. Nutrition plays a role — higher protein intake during molt supports faster feather regrowth.
Should I add oyster shell to the feed directly?
Offer oyster shell in a separate container, free-choice. Mixing it directly into feed forces all birds — including non-layers and young birds — to consume extra calcium, which can damage kidneys in birds that don’t need it. Laying hens will eat as much as they require on their own.
Why did my hen stop laying but doesn’t look like she’s molting?
Several factors stop laying aside from molt: reduced daylight hours (fewer than 14 hours), heat stress above 90°F (32°C), illness, stress from flock changes or predator scares, and age. Hens over 3 years old naturally reduce output. If the bird looks healthy, observe for 2-3 weeks before assuming a health problem.